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D15b / Z6 Intake Swap (D16y7 Honda)

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d15b VTi / Z6 intake swap
This is a basic outline, not a complete install guide.

Goal: Swap y7 Intake mani with Z6 / VTi Intake mani.
Target: Spdweb.net 1999 Honda Civic

Things you will find useful.

New intake and throttle body gaskets (recommended)
At least 2L of Anti-freeze (50/50 mix)
Some good carb and choke cleaner
New PCV Valve (recommended)
Small filter (for PCV bypass)
Assortment of vacuum line caps (A MUST!)
At least 3 coolant line bypass caps (A MUST!)

The reason behind any intake upgrade is to allow more air into the engine. The way the intake manifold is made or 'tuned' has a lot to do with how much power the engine makes at different RPM ranges. The top mounted TB as well as the small plenum and small runners of the stock y7 manifold (right) do not make for good low end power. I have chosen a manifold from a USDM 92-95 D16z6 motor. I used this as opposed to a 96-00 D16y8 to replace it because I feel the z6 has the best setup for air flow. A VTi manifold from a D15b may also be used for this swap. Both intakes have a side mounted TB and a fairly large plenum with long runners. The Z6 manifold also only has one emissions control vacuum line as opposed to a y8. I will use this for the evap purge valve since my PCV system has been bypassed.
Loosening the fuel rail and wiring to remove the stock manifold.
A small breather fitted to PCV valve will prevent any chance of durt getting in to the valve and making it fuction imporoperly. I would also recommend changeing your PCV valve at this time as it's much easier to do so with the intake manifold removed.

A few problems encountered.

The z6 manifold as well as some y8 and a6 manifolds use slide type, two wire IAC (idle air control) valves (left). Whereas the y7 uses a three wire barrel type (right). I am going to use my y7 TB with the three wire IAC on the Z6 mani. The old two wire IAC system can be just left in place to prevent any vacuum leaks. I am going to machine an aluminum plate and rubber gasket to cover mine.

There is also a small vacuum line for cruse control that I will not need as well as some coolant lines. All of these can just be capped off with some tubing caps, or, a bolt if you are adventuress. The coolant lines running to the TB are not needed.

If you plan to use your y7 throttle cable, a few minor modifications will need to be done to the cable mounting bracket. The y7 cable has about one inch to much cable at the end. Simply sliding the mouting bracket back one bolt hole will temorarly qure this problem however with only one bolt holding the braket I wouldnt trust it as a perminant fix.

Shown here are the bottoms of the two TB assemblies. Z6 on the left and 96-00 y7 on the right. Most Honda D16 series TB's are interchangeable with some small sensor differences. As you can see they look pretty much the same.
All bolted up! I used the y7 injectors because the Z6 injectors have OBD1 type plugs and will not fit my OBD2 harness. Some rerouted wiring and vacuum lines and it's ready to run. Started up with no CEL I am happy to report.