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New engine going in the 'Heavy Chevy'

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Got around to installing the new engine in the C10 last weekend.  Everything went pretty smoothly. The engine was sourced from ATK High Performance Engines. Its a Stage 1 engine package producing a dyno proven 325hp and 373Lb Ft torque. Click here to see the product page.  I ordered mine with the water pump, dual plane intake, balancer, and flex plate.

Here are a few shots of it fresh out of the crate

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The engine was packaged and secured very well. There was not so much as a scratch on the box.  This engine was shipped by Old Dominion freight lines.

Here are some shots of the transmission getting bolted up.  This transmission is the same THM350 which was pulled from the truck. A friend at work who works on transmissions rebuilt it for me using high heat clutches and steels, new bands and bushings, as well as a B&M stage 2 shift improver.  He also replaced some worn and broken parts. I purchased a 2400rpm stall converter I am wishing now I would have gone with a 2800 or 3000.


After then engine and transmission were installed in the truck I started working on a custom set of plug wires.. I think they turned out pretty good!  The carburetor is the same one pulled from the 305 that was in the truck.  Its an Edelbrock 1405 600cfm.  A little small, but I am still running cast manifolds so its fine for now.  After the engine has some miles on it I will install a nice set of full length headers and a new exhaust. Then I will upgrade to a 650 or maybe even a 700cfm carb. 


For the first start I ran a name brand 10w30 along with Lucas zinc break in additive I got at Advance Auto. Primed the engine with my primer tool (old distributor base, shaft w/ gear removed and my cordless drill).  I spun the pump until I got good pressure for about 60 seconds and then installed the distributor.  At this point the carburetor, fuel lines and pump were dry. Since it had been 30 or so minutes since I had primed the engine I decided to turn it over on the starter before priming the fuel system.  After only a few seconds I got 20psi of oil pressure.  I then primed the carb with fuel and turned the key.  Engine fired right up! I checked the timing and ran the engine at varying speeds between 1800ish and 2700ish for 20 minutes. I started it and ran it 5 minutes but had to shut it down because of a fuel leak. I then started it and ran a full 20 minutes.  Shut off the engine, drained the oil and replaced it with 10w30 standard oil and a bottle of Lucas zinc break in additive. Everything has been great since. Although there is an issue with a oil drain plug.  Actually the oil pan itself. The drain plug bung is off center and thus the oil plug will no seal properly. I finally got it to stop leaking with the use of an O-Ring but it is not ideal. I am going to ask ATK if changing the oil pan to a cast aluminum pan would void my warranty.  I don't see why it should! 

Here is a video of the truck running.  A very crappy video taken with a crap camera. This was after the first carb adjustment, engine warm.

The Heavy Chevy starting after some carb work

I guess now its on to bodywork and paint!

wow.. A new engine in the Fit?

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So in my previous entry I was griping about a knock I heard in the engine of the 2008 Honda Fit. Took it back to the dealer and they are going to replace the engine.  Sweet deal.  Actually they already have.  I started this blog entry and never finished it.  The Fit has had the engine replaced and I got it back about a week ago... as I write this however, its back at the dealer getting the windows tinted.  They gave me a 2012 Civic EX w/ Nav to drive.. pick the Fit up tomorrow.  I had a 2012 Accord LX for two weeks to drive while they were replacing the engine. The replacment engine was not new. It had 10k miles on it and was salvaged. It runs a heap quieter though so I'll take it.  I did a little scrubbing on it and it doesn't look too bad.

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Truck engine swap

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I recently added a 1986 Chevy C10 Silverado to the fleet which was the replacement for my 1992 Accord.  I drove the truck around for a few months.. put a couple thousand miles on it and then the transmission went.  I figured I would pull the engine and transmission which is extremely easy.  A couple hours and both were out.  I sent the transmission over to a guy I work with to be rebuilt.  It's a Turbo 350 transmission, one of the cheapest to rebuild so I figured we might as well do it up right.  Going with some racing clutches, B&M stage 2 shift improver, and a 2400rpm 12" stall converter. 

2008 Honda Fit Engine knock?

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Knock??!!  I noticed soon after I bought the car that the engine had a slight knock once it warmed up.  It has since gotten progressively worse.. to the point of what you hear in this video. I sent an email to the salesman who instructed me to call the service manager on Monday.  After some searching on the Internet I have come across people complaining of very similar noises. I am anxious to see what the dealer says about it.

2008 Honda Fit.. Warm Idle Knock

New Car... Downgrade or upgrade??

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From Accord EX-L V6 to Honda Fit Sport

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Well, my daughter and I stopped by the Honda dealer yesterday.  We looked at a Certified 2008 Honda Fit Sport 5 speed manual.  Test drove and talked with a salesman..  Ran some numbers and it looked like I might trade the blue Accord in on it.  Its going to be kind of an amenities shock going from an EX-L Accord V6 down to a Fit.. Specially the drop from 240HP to 109HP.

First look inside the Civic engine

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Wow thats not pretty.  So what happened in here?  Looks like rod bearing #4 got extremly hot and even discolored the crank.  The shavings are from the bearing becoming liquified and being forced through the small space between the rod big end and crank.