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2003 Subaru Legacy Input Shaft Bearing Replacement

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Well, its time to tare into the Subaru transmission.  The transmission was getting noisy so I cracked it open and found that the rear input shaft bearing was totally shot.  Looks like the clutch was recently replaced so I will be reusing that.  Things that will be replaced are.  Input shaft rear bearing, input shaft front bearing, clutch throw out bearing, pilot bearing.  I also picked up a seal and gasket kit. 

The job of pulling the transmission wasn't too hard. Most of it I did myself.  My father lent a hand when it was time to drop the transmission out of the car.  This baby weighs in at a good 200 pounds give or take so be careful if you want to tackle this one yourself. I am used to Honda transmissions, which are light weights in comparison.

Breaking the transmission free from the engine can be a little tricky depending on how long its been since it was removed.. if ever.  Make sure you have a jack (preferably a transmission jack) in place to support the transmission before you remove the transmission mounts from the car!  Tip:  To break the transmission free I removed all the mounting bolts and loosened the stud nuts, on this car the fasteners alternated between studs and bolts. If the transmission only has bolts just loosen them but don't take them all the way out. I then started to tap around the transmission bell housing with a small peen ball hammer while someone else wiggles the transmission back and forth.  Be very careful when doing this that you don't crack the transmission housing.  You can tap pretty hard, but don't whale on it with all your might.

Once the transmission is free from the engine, slide the jack back straight back and then lower it down. You can lower the transmission slightly before its free from the studs on the engine but lower it too much and it will bind and not come off at all. 

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2003 Subaru Legacy Special Edition.. with some special problems.

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Well, I bought a 2003 Subaru Legacy Special Edition, 5 speed manual.  Something the kids can tear up and I don't feel bad about it. I got a decent deal on it, a couple grand below KBB.  A lot of the routine stuff has been done, 2 half shafts replaced, new brakes, cleaned and detailed.. and the best part.. Maryland state inspected.   However, it is not without problems.  The transmission is noisy.  I think its the input shaft bearing.. 99.99% sure. Drained the transmission oil and this is what I found.  Kinda crunchy huh!   Some fresh gear oil quieted things down a little.. but this is something that will need attention in the future.  New input shaft bearing and seals, might as well do the engine main seal while I am at it.. as well as throwout bearing and pilot bearing.

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ebay buys

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Awesome. .. 

Some header wrap.. I hope this kit is enough to do two long headers.. 50' but I am sure it goes fast... I will also get some high temp silicon spray paint to use before wrapping them.. advice?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111000928492

 

Also two o2 bungs and plugs to weld in the exhaust for the LM-1 if I can get a good cord for it! Come on  Innovate Motorsports! Come through for me!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350245355543

I need some help!

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I need some carb turning help. I have an Edelbrock 1805 650cfm carb. Weiand Warrior dual plane intake, and a Street Fire 8362 distributor. Total all in timing is like 35*, and I changed the mechanical advance springs to black.  Which brings total timing in around 2500 rpm. When I set the timing at this.. the base timing is 35 - 21 so 14* at idle. At this idle timing the engine idles so high I cant bring it down below 900rpm. any lower and the throttle plates stick.. This is with adjusting the mixture screws for best vac / rpm.  No vac leaks that I can find.   On the EFI Hondas I am used to working on I can stall the car out by messing with the throttle.. like.. near 0 air getting through 0 TPS and the IACV all the way shut. the plenum was near sealed.  Anyways.. this Edelbrock 1805 and the one before it were both like this.  

1986 Chevy C10, 350sbc, 5800rpm rev.

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1986 C10 5800 rpm exhaust note. I advanced timing to 36 all in, then changed distributor springs to lighter ones (black). Got a slight ping at high rpm.  So I loosened the distributor and lost timing so I don't know what it was really at all.. all I could do was set it back to somewhere around 35* and see if that stops the ping. runs great otherwise. 

1986 C10 Exhaust finished, X pipe, slight rev

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1986 Chevy C10, 350sbc, long headers, 3" collectors,  Pypes 3" X Pipe, Jegs Performance dual chambered mufflers.